Apart from the general controversy around parabens (we wrote about it more here), there is a 2006 in-vitro (made in the lab not on real people) research about methylparaben (MP) showing that when exposed to sunlight, MP treated skin cells suffered more harm than non-MP treated skin cells. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. However, if you are pregnant or a small child (under 2 yrs. Dr. Leslie Baumann in her fantastic Cosmetic Dermatology book writes that RP is topically ineffective. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. It’s often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. Something went wrong. The result is that the mainly oil soluble, emollient fatty alcohol is converted to an emulsifier molecule that keeps oil and water mixed in creams. We think that the truth lies somewhere in the middle, and we agree with Dr. Baumann's conclusion: "sufficient evidence to establish a causal link between RP and skin cancer has not been produced. What's more, the anti-aging effectiveness is not the only questionable thing about RP. Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. Read all the geeky details about Glycolic Acid here >>, Read all the geeky details about Propylene Glycol here >>, Read all the geeky details about Lactic Acid here >>, Read all the geeky details about Salicylic Acid here >>, As we wrote in our lengthy retinol description, summarized the research available about retinyl palmitate here, Read all the geeky details about Retinol here >>, It’s the most researched AHA with the most proven skin benefits, It gently lifts off dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher, smoother skin, It can help skin’s own collagen production that results in firmer, younger skin, It can fade brown spots caused by sun damage or PIH, Choose a product where you know the concentration and pH value because these two greatly influence effectiveness, Don’t forget to use your sunscreen (in any case but especially so next to an AHA product), Slight stinging or burning with a stronger AHA product is normal, If your skin is very sensitive, rosacea prone choose rather a BHA or PHA product, It's a helper ingredient that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products, It's also a solvent, humectant and to some extent a penetration enhancer, It has a bad reputation among natural cosmetics advocates but cosmetic scientists and toxicology experts do not agree (read more in the geeky details section), It’s the second most researched AHA after glycolic acid, It also has amazing skin hydrating properties, In higher concentration (10% and up) it improves skin firmness, thickness and wrinkles, It's one of the gold standard ingredients for treating problem skin, It can exfoliate skin both on the surface and in the pores, It's more effective for treating blackheads than acne, For acne combine it with antibacterial agents like benzoyl peroxide or azelaic acid, Retinol (pure Vitamin A) is probably the most proven anti-aging ingredient available OTC, It has to be converted in the skin to retinoic acid to work its magic, Once converted, it has the same effect as all-trans-retinoic acid, aka tretinoin, A generally accepted ballpark number is that retinol is 10-to-20 times less potent than retinoic acid, It makes skin less wrinkled, smoother, firmer and tighter, It might also be helpful for acne prone skin as it normalizes keratinization and makes the pores produce less sebum, Possible side effects and irritation are also much less than with retinoic acid. All Rights Reserved. It is the global gold standard of UVA protection and is the most used UVA sunscreen in the world. L\'efficacité des AHA agit comme un peeling graduel de la surface de la peau sans douleur ni perte de temps. After having lived with acne for most of my life, this product has helped improve things for me very nicely. 0 users rated this 3 out of 5 stars 0. It is ultra concentrated for use after the skin has been prepared for a minimum of three months with gamma hydroxy™ cream. A common glycol that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products. It has excellent spreading properties and leaves no oily residue or build-up. It's readily biodegradable. FREE DELIVERY ON ALL ORDERS OVER £30. Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy Forte Cream. It can be naturally found in geranium oil (about 30%) or rose oil (about 25%). To make it more stable it can be - and should be - combined with other sunscreen agents to give stable and broad-spectrum protection (the new generation sunscreen agent, Tinosorb S is a particularly good one for that). The most common skincare ingredient of all. skin doctors gamma hydroxy forte resurfacing formula 50ml Gamma Hydroxy Forte is an ultra concentrated skin resurfacing cream. Also, if your skin is sensitive, fragrance is again not your best friend. A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer. It’s kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Use in conjunction with Skin Doctors™ supermoist spf50 for daily sun protection and Supermoist 24hr hydrator of an evening. … Limonene's nr1 function is definitely being a fragrance component, but there are several studies showing that it's also a penetration enhancer, mainly for oil-loving components. It has excellent spreading properties and leaves no oily residue or build-up. It’s one of the “EU 26 fragrances” that has to be labelled separately (and cannot be simply included in the term “fragrance/perfume”. It does smell nice but the problem is that it oxidizes on air exposure and the resulting stuff is not good for the skin. It is a time released chemical peel with added Vitamin A that gives salon treatment results in an at-home cream. If you continue shopping with us we'll assume that you're happy to receive cookies. It is stage 2 of the skin resurfacing program for use after gamma hydroxy™. In vitro (made in the lab not on real people) and animal studies have shown that it may produce hormonal (estrogen-like) effects. A study made in the UK with 483 people tested the allergic reaction to 3% oxidised linalool and 2.3% had positive test results. A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. We would add especially during the day! The maximum concentration of avobenzone permitted is 5% in the EU and 3% in the US. :). The combination of ingredients including Glycolic acid, Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid help to resurface the skin and the result is smoother, younger looking skin. Uploaded by: annan on 04/24/2020. A chemical sunscreen agent that absorbs UVB and short UVA rays (280-350nm) with its peak protection at 288 nm. It's a cheap, effective and well-tolerated ingredient to make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too soon. Do not panic, the studies were not conducted under real life conditions on real human people, so it is probably over-cautious to avoid Octinoxate altogether. The problem with linalool is, that just like limonene it oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. In the US, it is flat out prohibited as avobenzone becomes unstable when combined with mineral sunscreens. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. A super commonly used 5 unit long, cyclic structured silicone that is water-thin and does not stay on the skin but evaporates from it (called volatile silicone). It gently lifts off dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher, smoother skin. More often than not, it's used as a photostabilizer rather than a proper sunscreen agent as it can protect formulas nicely from UV damage. It's a super commonly used water-thin volatile silicone that gives skin and hair a silky, smooth feel. Skin Doctors gamma hydroxy forte is stage 2 of the skin resurfacing program. 5. 2. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. It can be used in concentrations of up to 10% in the EU and up to 6% in the US. It only protects against UVB and not UVA rays (the 320-400 nm range) – so always choose products that contain other sunscreens too. BE IN THE KNOW - SIGNUP FOR OUR NEWSLETTER. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF, hyaluronic acid (HA). There is no known anti-aging or positive skin benefits of the ingredient. Read more about parabens here >>. Smooth a thin, even layer of Gamma Hydroxy cream over your face, neck, hands or anywhere you wish to improve the appearance of your skin You may feel a slight tingling – any severe sensations and you should discontinue use Follow with your Skin Doctors daily or nightly moisturiser Skin Doctors gamma hydroxy™ is a time released chemical peel that gives salon treatment results in an at-home cream to help renew skin. Nor, I’m afraid, are there any good reasons to recommend the use of RP". All Rights Reserved. BTW, lye is not something new. The accumulation of excess dead cells on the surface of the skin can give it a dull, coarse, and blotchy appearance that can make it look older than it actually is. A handy multi-tasker, white to light yellowish oil-loving wax that works very well in oil-in-water emulsions. CURRENTLY SOLD OUT. Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy Forte 50ml: Amazon.com.au: Beauty. A super common fragrance ingredient that can be found among others in lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot or jasmine. Usage: Face, neck, décolletage, avoid the eye area. Chemically speaking, it is ethoxylated Cetearyl alcohol, meaning that some ethylene oxide is added to the fatty alcohol to increase the water-soluble part in the molecule. Smoothing effect over a number of weeks. It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. It's in many plants, e.g. Vitamin A - the most proven anti-aging ingredient available OTC that can smooth wrinkles and make skin firmer. If that was not enough, Wikipedia claims that BP-3 is nowadays the most common allergen found in sunscreens, and the always-trustworthy smartskincare writes that "[benzophenones] have been shown in some studies to promote the generation of potentially harmful free radicals". My face looks glowing, … Inspired by professional chemical peels, Skin Doctors™ Gamma Overnight Glow is an ultra concentrated 12% resurfacing peel that works to gently slough off the top layer of damaged skin to improve skin texture and clarity overnight. A clear, oil-soluble, "cosmetically-elegant" liquid that is the most commonly used chemical sunscreen. I always use it as a morning base after washing my face, then also use Vitamin E cream as well. A common fragrance ingredient that smells like jasmine. Regarding safety, BP-3 is somewhat controversial. A handy multi-tasker, white to light yellowish oil-loving wax that works very well in oil-in-water emulsions. Waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) A super common fragrance ingredient found naturally in many plants including citrus peel oils, rosemary or lavender. It’s part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot, jasmine, geranium and it can be found in 90-95% of prestige perfumes on the market. A silicone fluid that gives a nonoily, easy to spread emolliency to the formulas. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. If you are someone who likes to know what you put on your face then fragrance is not your best friend - there's no way to know what’s really in it. 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